PROGRAMACAO DE SABADO 

 COMEÇA O BRASIL RIDE: Paulo Freitas e Carla Lavigne – BOA PROVA 

 Ciclismo / Tri Barra: 80km no plano Saída as 6:45 no renato estrella 

 Desafio da serra de campos . 15 kms de plano + hortencias bate e volta 

 Pedal da Prof Rita , 7:00 no Infobarra 

 IRON 2014 – enviado na planilha master 

 Ciclismo montanha / copa vo2 / chile – subir canoas direto os cristo, desce estrada do cristo e subir Sumaré 

 MTB – 7:30 na padaria bela barra no recreio (posto 11) – Prof Eduardo 

 CORRIDA 

 Cruces / maratona da mizuno / maratona de búzios / meia de búzios: sobe canoas e desce pelo JB 10 de de búzios e demais corredores: areia 60 min 

 PROGRAMACAO DE DOMINGO 

AQUARIO NO DOMINGO AS 7:15 NO POSTO 6 EM COPA 

 Corridas: será publicado sábado a tarde no site.

2013 GoPro IRONMAN World Championship - Pro Race Day

Specialized Roubaix

FLÁVIA BIONDI - PARABÉNS Kona, 2012 e 2013

TREINO DE AMANHA

PROVA DE CICLISMO NO ATERRO – BOA SORTE!!! CORRIDA ENCONTRO NO POSTINHO DO ALTO horario:730 da manha • CRUCES - bate e volta no hotel das paineiras • Maratona da Mizuno - bate e volta no cristo • 1/2 de buzios - bate e vola no hotl das paineiras • MARATONA DE BUZIOS completa)- bate e volta no cristo • demais corredores - 12kms • TRAIL RUN 26/10 - bate e volta no cristo • IRONMAN 2014 – bate e volta no hotel das paineiras CICLISMO – pedir a benção ao cristo + vale encantado Saída livre

Ironman Triathlon Motivation - Kona World Championships NBC Highlights

PROGRAMACAO DE SABADO

Ciclismo / Tri

SABADO TEM FLAVIA BIONDI EM KONA !!!

AOS QUE FOREM A ESTRADA – MUITO CUIDADO - É FERIADO

Barra: 80km com bate e volta em guaratiba ( direto pelas Américas)

Saída as 6:45 no renato estrella

Pedal da Germano ( quem ministrara este treino será a Prof Rita)

IRON 2014 – enviado na planilha master - será enviado um email com sugestão de percursos e alaternativas.

MIAMI – 80kms

Ciclismo montanha / copa vo2 – subir por qq vi ate a cx dagua e descer heliponto. 2x heliponto – cx da água + volta na floresta da tijuca

CORRIDA

Cruces / maratona da mizuno: areia fofa 80 min

Meia de búzios: areia 40 min

Maratona de búzios: areia 80 min

PROGRAMACAO DE DOMINGO

TREINO DE CORRIDA – SERA PUBLICADO SABADO AS 16HS NO BLOG

Honda "Hands"

Giro d'Italia 2014 - The route / Il percorso

Motoristas de ônibus no papel de ciclistas

Elite Men's Road Race Highlights - 2013 UCI Road World Championships

Elite Women Road Race Highlights - 2013 UCI Road World Championships

PROGRAMACAO DE SABADO

 

Ciclismo / Tri

 

Boa prova aos que forem correr em rio das outras

 

Barra: 80km com bate e volta em guaratiba , via vargem grande ( concessionária recreio)

Saída as 6:45 no renato estrella

 

Pedal da Rita ( quem Dara este treino será o Pror Germano)

Saída as 7:30 no postinho  alto ( para os que não sabem onde é, basta subir o alto da boa vista e no topo haverá um posto de gasolina)

 

Pedal na estrada: 100kms

Saída e local a combinar entre os que forem

 

Pedal na montanha: 2 horas livre , subindo pela mesa (incluir no trajeto , canoas e vale)

 

Iron 2014 – enviado no email

70.3 Miami = 100kms

 

 

MTB: Pedal com o Prof Eduardo em VG

Saída: enviar email para o prof

CORRIDA

 

Cruces / maratona da mizuno: subida das canoas e mesa

Meia de búzios: areia 80 min

Maratona de búzios: areia 80 min

 

PROGRAMACAO DE DOMINGO

 

Aquariomania no posto 6 em copa

7:30 da manha

 

Reuniao Iron 2014

7:00 da manha em local e horário, enviados por email

 

Maratona de Buzios 21kms

Meia de Buzios: 10km+ 20 min areia

Cruces: 24kms ( plano)

 

Ciclismo as 7:30 no posto 6 em copa

Percurso: favor me enviar um email

 

Men's TTT Highlights - 2013 UCI World Road Championships

COMO CAPACETES SAO TESTADOS

AJUSTE DO CAPACETE:

mas também não se esqueça de ajusta-lo perfeitamente na cabeça:

• ele não pode sacudir ao balançar a cabeça (frente e lado)
• as tiras devem estar ajustadas de forma que você "boceje" tranquilamente , mas sem fazer alças
• as tiras laterais não devem estar sobre as orelhas

O texto abaixo teve como fonte:

http://www.helmets.org/testing.htm
Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute

How Bicycle Helmets are Tested Summary: This page describes the lab tests that bike helmets must pass to meet the CPSC standard. There is other testing related to lead content that we do not cover. CPSC has a video of this testing up on their Web site. The testing to certify a helmet to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission's standard for bicycle helmets can be described in six steps. 1. Samples required The lab must procure samples of the helmet model. Full compliance testing requires 16 samples. The lab also needs a number from the manufacturer called the Helmet Positioning Index (HPI). It specifies the measurement to place the helmet correctly on the headform. 2. Marking The lab technician puts the first sample on a test headform the right size to fit it. The headform is mounted upright on a stand, usually on a flat table. The helmet is adjusted using the HPI and then a 5 kilogram (10.x pound) cloth bag filled with lead shot is placed on it to compress any fitting foam inside. A marker on a stand is adjusted to the right level, using a measurement from a table in the standard that varies by helmet size. With the marker against the helmet the test line is marked by either rotating the helmet or sliding the marker stand around it. Each sample is marked in turn. The lab test impacts must all be centered on or above the test line. The area below the line is not tested, although the "footprint" of an impact centered on the test line will extend below the line, and the helmet is not likely to pass if there is no material there. To get an idea of where the test line falls, you can take a medium sized helmet and mark the line xx mm below the top. Put that helmet on your head and you will see that the test line is probably higher than it should be, and the area of the helmet tested is really not large enough. The Snell Memorial Foundation's bicycle helmet standard has a lower test line. Even the old ANSI standard adopted in 1984 had a lower test line. 3. Conditioning Helmets are tested hot, wet, cold and room temperature. Four samples are heated to Four samples are chilled to Four samples are soaked in water. Four samples are tested dry and room temperature. 4. Strap test Next comes the strap strength and "rolloff" testing. Here is one test rig. There are other designs, but they all function the same. Photos from the CPSC test lab in Gaithersburg, MD 5. Drop tests The helmet is now ready for drop testing. It is strapped onto a headform, held upside down on a test rig that guides its fall onto an anvil. This rig in the CPSC lab is a monorail, and the drop is guided by a single rail. Others use two parallel wires (twinwire). The lab technician raises the helmet and headform up until the top of the helmet is a specified distance from the anvil below. A trigger lets the helmet drop in free fall until the helmet hits the anvil. The velocity of the drop is checked just before the impact to ensure that the speed was correct. An instrument called an accelerometer measures g's in the center of the headform. If the helmet works well, the g's are low--probably below 200, and in the better helmets below 150. If the g's exceed 300, the helmet fails. The testing is on three anvils of different shapes: The flat anvil is used with a 2 meter drop. The helmet and headform are traveling at 14 mph at impact. The hemispheric anvil shown below, about the shape of a grapefruit, is used with a 1.2 meter drop. (The point load makes it a severe test.) The helmet and headform are traveling 11 mph at impact. The hazard or curbstone anvil is rounded like the edge of a curb. It is another severe test, and the drop is 1.2 meters (11 mph). If the drop speeds seem too low to you, please see our page on limits of helmet protection, where we explain them. We think they are adequate. If improvement can be made, lowering the g's permitted would reduce injuries more than raising the drop height, but you may need to review the phyisics of a fall to see why. 6. Records The CPSC standard requires the lab to keep records of the testing. That includes data on the helmet and data on performance. Pass or Fail The bottom line is that the helmet must pass all of the tests described above. If it fails on any of them, it cannot be certified to the standard. You don't meet a standard "except for . . ." A failure on any element of the tests is a complete failure. We have more on testing and standards Bike helmet standards Comparison of different standards Calculations including a spreadsheet Limits of helmet protection And elsewhere you can find CPSC's video of their lab testing. The Snell Foundation's standards and a video of Snell's lab test procedures YouTube is a dynamic site, and videos are posted there every day. We recommend that you do a search there for more. This page was last revised on: April 9, 2009.

Helmet S-Works + McLaren TT (HD)

QUANDO TROCAR UM CAPACETE

mas também não se esqueça de ajusta-lo perfeitamente na cabeça:

• ele não pode sacudir ao balançar a cabeça (frente e lado)
• as tiras devem estar ajustadas de forma que você "boceje" tranquilamente , mas sem fazer alças
• as tiras laterais não devem estar sobre as orelhas

os links sugeridos de leitura do texto abaixo, podem ser lidos diretamente no site do autor

 

PUBLICADO NO SITE:   http://www.helmets.org/replace.htm   Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute

 

 

When Should I Replace My Helmet?     Summary: Did you crash it? Replace immediately. Did you drop it hard enough to crack the foam? Replace. Is it from the 1970's? Replace. Is the outside just foam or cloth instead of plastic? Replace. Does it lack a CPSC, ASTM or Snell sticker inside? Replace. Can you not adjust it to fit correctly? Replace!! Did you crash in it? For starters, most people are aware that you must replace a helmet after any crash where your head hit. The foam part of a helmet is made for one-time use, and after crushing once it is no longer as protective as it was, even if it still looks intact. Bear in mind that if the helmet did its job most people would tell you that they did not even hit their head, or did not hit their head that hard. And the thin shells on most helmets now tend to hide any dents in the foam. But if you can see marks on the shell or measure any foam crush at all, replace the helmet. (Helmets made of EPP foam do recover, but there are few EPP helmets on the market. Yours is EPS or EPU unless otherwise labeled.) You can also crack the helmet foam or damage it by dropping the helmet on a hard surface. The cracks may be small and hard to see, so you need to look carefully. Cracks in the foam always require replacement of the helmet. You may be reluctant to replace a helmet that looks almost as good as new, but if you did hit, you don't want to take chances on where you will hit next time. If the foam is cracked under the thin shell, it will be more likely to fly apart in your next crash. Many manufacturers will replace crashed helmets for a nominal fee, and most will also inspect crashed helmets to see if they need replacement. Call them if you are in doubt. For contact info check our list of manufacturers. (You can also ask them if they think the advice on this page is valid!}   Is it from the 70's? If you still have a helmet from the 70's without a styrofoam liner, replace it immediately. That would include the Skidlid (with spongy foam), 1970's Pro-tec (spongy foam), Brancale (no foam) and all leather "hairnets." They just did not have the protection of helmets made after 1984 when the ANSI standard swept the junk off the market. The better 1970's helmets were reasonably good ones, but were not quite up to current standards. It is probably time to replace that old Bell Biker, Bailen, MSR, Supergo or similar model from the 70's or early 80's. (We have a page up on replacing the Bell Biker.) The hard shells were great, but the foam liners were not thick enough to meet today's ASTM or Snell standard. The Bell V-1 Pro was designed to today's standards, but the foam is very stiff, and if you are over 65 you probably should replace that too. If you have one of the 1980's all-foam helmets with perhaps a cloth cover, we would recommend replacing that one. Lab tests showed some years ago that bare foam doesn't skid well on pavement, and could jerk your neck in a crash. The cloth doesn't help much. In addition, some of them had no internal reinforcing, and they tend to break up in a crash. That's not serious if you just fall, but if you are hit by a car the helmet can fly apart in the initial contact and leave you bare-headed for the crack on the pavement.   Is it newer? With what standards sticker inside? Newer helmets from the late 1980's and the 90's may or may not need replacement. First look to see what standards sticker is inside. If it's ASTM or Snell, the helmet was designed to meet today's standards for impact protection, and you may even find that Consumer Reports tested it in one of their articles. Most manufacturers now recommend that helmets be replaced after five years, but some of that may be just marketing. (Bell now recommends every three years, which seems to us too short. They base it partially on updating your helmet technology, but they have not been improving their helmets that much over three year periods, and we consider some of their helmets since the late 1990's to be a step backwards, so we would take that with a grain of salt.) Deterioration depends on usage, care, and abuse. But if you ride thousands of miles every year, five years may be a realistic estimate of helmet life. And helmets have actually been improving enough over time to make it a reasonable bet that you can find a better one than you did five years ago. It may fit better, look better, and in some cases may even be more protective. For an alternate view that agrees with the manufacturers, check out the helmet FAQ of the Snell Foundation. Snell knows a lot about helmets and their views on this subject should not be dismissed lightly, even though we disagree with them. Occasionally somebody spreads rumors that sweat and ultraviolet (UV) exposure will cause your helmet to degrade. Sweat will not do that. The standards do not permit manufacturers to make a helmet that degrades from sweat, and the EPS, EPP or EPU foam is remarkably unaffected by salt water. Your helmet will get a terminal case of grunge before it dies of sweat. Sunlight can affect the strength of the shell material, though. Since helmets spend a lot of time in the sun, manufacturers usually put UV inhibitors in the plastic for their shells that control UV degradation. If your helmet is fading or showing small cracks around the vents, the UV inhibitors may be failing, so you probably should replace it. Chances are it has seen an awful lot of sun to have that happen. Otherwise, try another brand next time and let us know what brand faded on you. At least one shop told a customer that the EPS in his three year old helmet was now "dried out." Other sales people refer to "outgassing" and say that the foam loses gas and impact performance is affected. Still others claim that helmets lose a percentage of their effectiveness each year, with the percentage growing with age. All of that is nothing but marketing hype to sell a replacement helmet before you need it. There is some loss of aromatics in the first hours and days after molding, and helmet designers take account of that for standards testing. But after that the foam stabilizes and does not change for many years, unless the EPS is placed in an oven for some period of time and baked. The interior of your car, for example, will not do that, based on helmets we have seen and at least one lab crash test of a helmet always kept in a car in Virginia over many summers. Helmet shells can be affected by car heat, but not the foam. The Snell Memorial Foundation has tested motorcycle helmets held in storage for more than 20 years and found that they still meet the original standard. EPS is a long-lived material little affected by normal environmental factors. Unless you mistreat it we would not expect it to "dry out" enough to alter its performance for many years. An honest manufacturer: MET The Italian company MET says in their 2010 catalog:"We are often asked 'For how long is a helmet safe?', or 'how often should I replace my helmet?”' Until now it has been difficult to find any reliable figures to help answer these queries. MET have now developed a series of tests which are conducted on aged helmets to determine a 'best before' date (unless the helmet is involved in an accident. In that case it should be replaced immediately.). The results indicate that, if used properly accordingly to our owner manual, our helmets will still do their job up to eight years after they have been made. Not only is that good news for the customer, it’s great news for the environment!" We applaud MET for undertaking an actual testing program on helmet life and for making that statement. We regard it as a triumph of integrity over marketing. MET's helmets are made with industry standard shells and liners, so there is no reason we can see that their recommendation should not be good for many other helmet brands as well. If another manufacturer comes up with a testing program that shows earlier deterioration in the protection from their products we will review this page. In sum, we don't find the case for replacing a helmet that meets the ASTM or Snell standards that compelling if the helmet is still in good shape and fits you well.   Are you using it for non-bicycle activities? Since 2003 helmets have been available that are actually certified to skateboard or ski standards as well as the CPSC bicycle helmet standard. If you are using a bicycle helmet for skateboarding or any other sport where you crash regularly, see our writeup on helmets for the current season for more info on that. Otherwise, we would recommend buying another helmet designed for the activity you are pursuing, whether or not you replace your bike helmet. We have more on that subject on our page on other helmets. Note that most "skate-style" helmets currently on the market are actually bicycle helmets certified only to the CPSC bicycle helmet standard. They have CPSC stickers inside, but no ASTM Skateboard standard sticker.   Do you still like wearing it? Your helmet is of course a piece of wearing apparel as well as a safety appliance. If you consider yourself a stylish rider and your helmet is not as spiffy as the new ones, go for it. There is nothing wrong with wanting to look good, and if you do, fashion is a valid reason to replace a helmet. Is it a better helmet than the ones available today? As new styles have become more "squared-off" and designers have begun adding unnecessary ridges and projections that may increase the sliding resistance of a helmet shell, there is good reason to stay with one of the more rounded designs of the early to mid 90's. Those round, smooth shells like the original Bell Image that Consumer Reports rated highly in 1993 are more optimal for crashing than some of the newer designs. So think twice about "moving up," and look for a rounded, smooth-shelled design when you do. We have a lot of info on the new ones up on our page on helmets for the current season. Inspecting a Helmet We have a page up with step by step instructions on how to inspect a helmet.

Bikes de TT no pelotao, usar ou nao?

Elite Men's ITT Highlights - 2013 UCI Road World Championships

Elite Women ITT Highlights - 2013 UCI World Road Championships